Poultry Production (part2) Egg Production

Hens start laying in spring. An early or late start depends on the strain and age of hens, weather conditions, methods of housing, feeding and general husbandry practices. If conditions are favourable, some strains of birds will start to lay in August, while others may not start until October. It is best not to breed from hens younger than 8 months because they take longer to come into production and they lay fewer eggs. As a general rule, chicks hatched after March will not be mature enough to breed that year. In an established flock, select breeding hens from chicks hatched early in the season. If the late winter and early spring months are warm, hens will mate and lay earlier. Housing them in intensive conditionsprotects them from cold weather which would delay egg production. Feeding a well-balanced breeding ration and adopting good husbandry practices, such as control of internal and external parasites, will also help pheasants lay earlier in the season. In trials conducted at the former Agricultural Research Institute at Seven Hills in 1975–79, egg production per hen increased by 19 eggs in 3 years (see Table 1). Whilst this increase is significant in itself, it is equally important to note that the number of broken eggs fell by 24%. 'Broken eggs' refers to eggs whose shells cracked or broke in the breeding pen and those completely unsuitable for setting in an incubator because they would fail to hatch. Because of the increased number of eggs laid per hen and the decrease in broken eggs, 28 more eggs per hen were available for incubation. Seasonal conditions in breeding seasons did not vary much from year to year; in fact there were no major changes in management practices. However, husbandry operations were modified as a result of experience gained, and this no doubt contributed to the improvement in performance. Genetics is a major contributing factor to increased egg production. Hybrid vigour (heterosis) occurred in 1978 because two genetically unrelated lines were crossed. This indicates the importance of using crossbred females in a breeding program. However, egg numbers could fall in a subsequent generation. Unfortunately, due to lack of facilities, the two lines could not be kept separately as should happen in a breeding program. Egg handling Because the egg-laying season only extends over a few months, production costs are high and so all eggs laid should be given a chance to incubate. Collect eggs at regular intervals and as often as possible during the day. Hens will lay their eggs on the ground in a compound, or on the floor in a building. Reduce egg breakages by providing shelter to encourage laying in central locations. Most eggs from hens raised on good deep litter will be clean, but eggs from hens raised under range conditions can be dirty. Clean dirty eggs to remove caked mud and manure by gently rubbing them with steel wool or fine sandpaper. After cleaning, store them at about 15°C and about 75% humidity. Storing eggs longer than 10 days will lessen hatching performance. For best results, put regular weekly settings in the incubators. Artificial lighting Using artificial lighting to adjust poultry egg production is an accepted commercial practice. As a rule, lights have not been used in the pheasant industry, but trials by the former NSW Agriculture (now NSW Department of Primary Industries) showed that wherever practical, artificial lighting should be used. Where housing is intensive, the installation of artificial lights is usually possible, but there may be some difficulty with range conditions where light intensity required is 10–15 lux at bird height. This can be achieved by providing a 60 watt lamp approximately 2.5 m from the ground for every 18 m2 of floor space. Lights should be used to provide a constant daylength of 15 hours. Because in the southern hemisphere natural daylength increases until the end of the year and then starts to decrease, houses and yards should be lit from 1 January (see Table 2). The lighting circuit should be fitted to an automatic time switch, adjusted fortnightly to simulate the required daylength. As pheasants are excitable and might react to the sudden shock of lights being turned on before sunrise, it is better to extend daylength into the evening hours. Both morning and evening lighting can be achieved with time switches fitted with a double set of arms, and this is ideal. To maintain the correct light intensity at bird height, lamps must be kept free of dust, and burnt-out ones should be replaced immediately. Incubation Unfortunately, pheasant eggs do not hatch as well as other poultry eggs in modern forced-draught incubators. Hatching results are much better using broody hens or still-air machines. With a commercial operation, using brooding hens is completely out of the question and still-air machines need much more attention and labour than automatic forced-draught incubators. Some types of forced-draught incubators give better hatching results than others. The normal time of incubation for ‘True’ pheasant eggs is 24–25 days. The actual time will be governed by factors such as age and method of storing eggs, and management of the incubator, in particular its temperature and humidity. Temperature The manufacturers’ recommendations for operation of incubators should be followed at all times. As a guide, forced-draught machines should operate at a temperature of approximately 37.5°C during incubation. Humidity Correct humidity control is essential for pheasant eggs. The humidity should be approximately 65% (30.5°C wet bulb) for the first 21 days of incubation, and should then be increased to 90% (34°C wet bulb) until hatching is completed. Humidity readings can be obtained using a wet bulb thermometer. If high humidity is not maintained at hatching, the chick will have difficulty penetrating the membrane of the shell which will be too hard and rubbery. Keep moisture trays filled with warm water at all times and increase humidity at hatching time by hanging wet hessian in the incubators, or by using automatic misting sprays in the cabinet of the incubator. Turning Eggs must be turned regularly during incubation to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell. The more frequently the eggs are turned, the more chickens will hatch successfully. Some incubators are fitted with automatic devices to turn eggs every hour. If the eggs are turned by hand, they will probably not be turned during the night. It is important that eggs do not spend two consecutive nights on the same side. To avoid this, turn the eggs at a vertical angle of 90° an odd (not an even) number of times during the day. Don’t set and hatch eggs in the same machine unless they are all at the same stage of incubation. Hatching performance Table 3 shows the hatching results obtained in the trials at the former NSW Agriculture Research Station at Seven Hills. Even though fertility has increased to 83% this is still considered, in economic terms, to be too low. Because males fight when housed intensively it may be better to use a mating ratio of 1:8 rather than 1:6. But individual males cannot be replaced during the breeding season because new males will be killed by the remaining males in the pen. In 1978–79 there were only six hatchings, the highest of the six hatchings being 56% of all eggs set. During this hatching period, oxygen was fed into the incubator but with very little control of actual quantity. It appears, however, from this hatch, that with the type of incubator used, oxygen may play a major part in improving not only the number of chicks hatched but also chick quality. Hatching time was also considerably reduced.

Lettuce

Lettuce is a cool-season crop that grows well in the spring and fall in most areas. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45 F and 65 F are ideal. Loose, fertile, sandy loam soils, well-supplied with organic matter are best. Soil should be well-drained, moist, but not soggy with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination. Start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for earliest crop. One week before setting seeds or transplants in the ground, till in compost or organic matter, especially if you have heavy soils. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost. Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will. Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you'll need to "thin" for the proper spacing. Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart. Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart. Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart. Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil. Water thoroughly at time of transplant. Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as "barrier plants" for the lettuce. Care You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season. Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer. To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10 degrees F (6 degrees C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden. Make sure soil remains moist but is well-drained. An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months. Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate. Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow. Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, in the heat of the summer, may reduce bolting. Pests Aphids Earwigs White Mold Harvest/Storage Lettuce should be harvested when full size, but just before maturity. You want it young and tender. Before maturity, you can harvest leaf lettuce by simply removing outer leaves so that the center leaves can continue to grow. Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer leaves, digging up the whole plant or cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible this way. Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm. Mature lettuce gets bitter and woody and it will go bad quickly, so check your garden everyday. As time passes, you will want to cut the whole plant from the ground. It’s best to harvest in the morning before leaves have been exposed to sun. Keep lettuce in the refrigerator for up to 10 days in a loose plastic bag.

Corn

Corn is very susceptible to frosts. You can lose a crop if you plant too early. Corn doesn’t transplant well, either, so if you garden in a short-season area and want to start corn indoors, use biodegradable pots to avoid disturbing the roots at transplanting time. It’s better to wait until all danger of frost is past and the soil warms up to the 60°F needed for seed germination. If the weather stays cool, spread black plastic on the planting area to warm the soil more quickly. If you want corn only for fresh eating, plant a minimum of 10 to 15 plants per person. To extend your harvest, sow an early-maturing type every 2 weeks for 6 weeks, or plant early, mid-season, and late types at the same time. To avoid cross-pollination, keep different corn cultivars (especially supersweets) 400 or more yards apart, or plant them so they tassel 2 weeks apart. Site your corn patch in a sunny, wind-protected area. Corn is an extremely heavy feeder, especially on nitrogen, so it thrives in a place where soil-enriching crops like beans, hairy vetch, or clover grew the previous season, or add 20 to 30 pounds of compost per 100 square feet to the soil as you prepare it for planting. The best way to promote complete pollination is to plant corn in blocks rather than long individual rows—a block should be at least three rows wide. If you plant only one or two rows, hand pollinate to improve kernel formation, as described on the next page. For early plantings, sow seeds only 1 inch deep; in the hot weather of midsummer, plant them up to 2 inches deep. The average germination rate for sweet corn is about 75 percent, so plant three seeds together every 7 to 15 inches. They should germinate in 7 to 10 days. Thin to one plant every 15 inches. To avoid disturbing remaining plants, remove unwanted seedlings by cutting them off at soil level. Growing guidelines: Corn can’t compete with weeds, so cultivate thoroughly around the stalks for the first month of growth. After that, corn’s shallow roots will spread out as much as 1 foot from the stalk; be careful not to disturb these roots, because it’s easy to damage them. Instead, apply mulch to prevent weeds from sprouting. Corn needs about 1 inch of water a week, particularly when the stalks begin to tassel. Water stress during pollination will result in ears with lots of missing kernels, so don’t skip watering your corn patch. Apply water at the soil surface by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation. Avoid spraying plants from above, which could wash pollen off the flowering tops. When the stalks are 6 inches tall, side-dress them with blood meal or diluted fish-based fertilizer, and repeat the feeding when they are about knee-high. Don’t remove any side shoots or suckers that appear; they won’t harm production, and cutting them might damage roots.

Planting Ladies finger

Planting Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously. In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling. When seeding okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F. Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 1/2 inch deep in light soil and 1 inch deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants. Growing guidelines When okra is 4 inches tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. Read about makingcompost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop. Problems Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. To control corn earworms, cabbage loopers, aphids, or flea beetles, go to the Top Ten Garden Insect Pests. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure. Harvesting About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier. Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods' prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as 'Clemson Spineless'.

Castration

Castration, the surgical removal of the two testicles, is a routine management practice for male pigs destined for slaughter. The testicles produce sperm and the male hormone, testosterone. Pork from boars, or uncastrated male pigs at slaughter weight, may have an odor during cooking that is very offensive to many people. This is called a ``boar odor'' or a ``tainted'' odor. Various techniques are used for castration. The position of the animal during surgery and the method and degree of rest- raint are dictated by the age and size of the animal. The best time to castrate a pig is between 1 and 21 days of age. Young pigs are easier to hold or restrain. They bleed less from surgery and may have antibody protection from the sow's colostrum. Pigs can be successfully castrated on day one. One of the major disad- vantages of castrating early is that scrotal hernias are more difficult to detect. Most scrotal hernias are genetic in origin. Do not keep for breeding, boars and gilts from any litter in which one or more pigs was herniated. For pigs several weeks old, one person holds the pig by the rear legs while the other person does the castrating. For younger pigs, it is possible for one person to hold the pigwith one hand or between the knees and also do the castration. A mechanical pig holder can be used. Once the pig is restrained, clean the scrotum and surround- ing area with a cotton swab soaked in a mild disinfectant. A disinfected, sharp, castration knife, scalpel, or razor-blade type instrument can be used to make the incision. Examine the testicles before making the incision to determine if there are two of similar size. If there is a scrotal enlargement, it could indicate a scrotal hernia or rupture. Do not castrate the pig unless you are trained to repair hernias. The pig's intestines will be forced through the incision. Sometimes the testicle is removed before a scrotal hernia is discovered. If this happens the herniation must be repaired by suturing immediately. If one or both testicles are not found, the pig may be a cryptorchid, meaning that the testicle(s) failed to descend through the inguinal canal from the abdomen during development. When this condition is noticed, ear notch the pig and make a record of it. Often, the testicle(s) will descend to a normal position as the pig grows. The pig should be castrated later, after the testicle presents itself. With one hand, tighten the skin over the scrotum to help expose the testicle and the site for the incision. With the castration instrument, make two incisions about as long as the testicles near the center of each. Cut deeply enough to go through the outside body skin. Cutting or not cutting the white membrane (tunica vaginalis) which surrounds the testicle is an individual preference and is optional on small pigs. Squeeze, or pop, the testicles through the incision. If it is difficult to get the testicle through the incision, enlarge the incision slightly at the end closest to the tail. Pull out the testicle toward the tail at a right angle to the length of the body and cut the cord close to the incision. Do not pull straight up on the testicle. Repeat the procedure for the second testicle. It is best not to apply antiseptic because it causes the pig to sit and rub dirt and debris from the floor or bedding into the incisions, causing more harm than antiseptic does good. Later, observe castrated animals for excess bleeding or the presence of tissue or intestines (hernia). Cut off any cord that may be protruding from the incision as this may serve as a wick for infection but make sure it is not intestine. If intestines protrude, gently push them back through the opening and close up by suturing the tunica vaginalis. It is much easier to replace the intestines if the tunica vaginalis covering the testicle is not removed during castration. Side Cutter Method of Castration The side-cut method of castration is successfully practiced in some parts of the U.S. It is a simple technique that is performed between 4 and 10 days of age, when pigs are small, requiring only one person to do the job. Problems can be encountered when pigs are castrated at less than 3 days or older than 10 days using this method. For this method,* the pig is held with one hand by one leg, belly outward. With the middle finger, or whichever is comfortable to use, the testicles are made more pronounced. The resulting fold of skin is where the incision, is made. Disinfected side cutters are positioned about two-thirds of the way into the fold with a clean cut made directly through the scrotal tissue (right of the midline). After the cut on the right side has been made, a similar incision, but to the left of the midline, is made. The testicles are made to pop out through the incisions as they are pinched with the thumb and forefinger of the same hand that is holding the pig. Important: Press very firmly with the thumb against the pelvis of the pig in front of the scrotum when pulling the testicles out with the side cutters so that the cord will break off at the point where the thumb is pressed. Otherwise it is common to cause a hernia. There is little or no bleeding with this method. The testicle, after it is exposed, is grasped with the side cutters. Care is taken to avoid cutting through the cords beneath the testicle as they are now ready to be pulled out with the testicle. The right testicle and associated cords are pulled out slowly and steadily. There is no cutting of the cords in this method as they are pulled out completely with the testicle. Remove any loose cord tissue left outside the incision. Nothing but the disinfected side cutters touches the exposed tissue. For beginning pork producers, it is often best to have a veterinarian or other skilled individual demonstrate the proper techniques of castration. Some State Extension Services also conduct swine farrowing schools that teach castration and other skills in taking care of baby pigs.

Poultry Production

Introduction Chicken broiler and egg production are the most progressive animal enterprises in the Philippines today. The poultry industry in fact began as the backyard enterprise but has shifted to the formation of very large integrated contract farming operations. The growth of poultry industry in the Philippines has been impressive but its problems include inefficient management and the prevalence of many destructive poultry diseases and parasites cannot be ignored. This manual provides technology and management know-how for poultry raising which we hope present poultry raisers and prospective poultry producers may find useful in effectively managing their poultry farms and also help them realize substantial financial returns from their enterprise in this period or high production cost inputs. The Chicken: Classes, Breeds and Varieties The chicken is the most exploited species of poultry, which is utilized for food production in the whole world. Scientific researchers have been done on this species for past centuries and it is still the focus of the present and future experimentation. In the Philippines chicken rank first, while ducks rank second in economic importance as source of meat and eggs. Breed of Chicken can be classified by its utility. This is based on the purpose for which the breed or variety is most efficient. Egg Class- The breed belonging to this class is characterized by their comparatively small size. They lay large white shelled eggs, very active and nervous in temperament. They are non-sitters. The earlier selection of geneticist for this class showed record of early maturity that may not necessarily be true with the modern breeds under this class. Examples: Leghorn, Minorcas, Anconas, Mikawa. Meat Class- to this class belong the breeds that are large, slow movement, quiet and gentle in disposition. Geneticist of the past described them as relatively slow maturing which may not hold true anymore with the present meat breeds. They are generally poorer egg layers and generally lay brown shelled eggs. Examples are: Brahmas, Cochin,Langshans, Comish, White Rocks. General Purpose Class- Breeds of Chicken in this class are medium sized good layers and the young are fast growers. They are not s nervous as the egg class but much more active than the meat class. Examples are: New Hampshire, Rhode Island Red, Plymouth rock, Lancaster, Nagoya, Cantonese. The general purpose breeds had its popularity period when the idea of the poultry breeder was to hit both products of eggs and meat in one kind of breed. Later developments proved that specialization of breed purpose is better goal for more efficient production. The general purpose class at present has been modified and developed by breeders in the production of broiler chicks. Fancy class- The breeds under this class may be characterized as possessing decided beauty of plumage or form of having a rare unusual appearance. Most of them are raised chiefly as ornamentals or pets by hobbyists, regardless of their value as source of food. Example: Frizzle, Bantams, Long tailed. Fighting Class- Since this sport is now legalized in the Philippines it should revolutionalize our original vision that fighting cock breeds has no place place for our study. There are groups of this kinds of chickens now developed by national and international aficionados in this game. Since there are no studies conducted on the breeding and raising of these game fowls, the LAS could not profess any knowledge of what kind and what process of raising will assure a cock to win in the fight. The popular ones are the Ruble, Hulsay, Claret, Oasis Health and Diseases AVIAN Pest (New castle Disease) Cause: Virus Transmission: Direct contact with the nasal and mouth discharges of infected birds Airborne transmission Through mechanical means such as being carried by sparrows (maya) predators or other birds Human being transmit the disease through infected clothes and shoes Signs In young birds gasping, coughing, rattling of the windpipe, hoarse chirping, paralysis, walking backyard and circling In adults, coughing and occasional paralysis, abrupt drop in egg production shoft shelled eggs, greenish watery diarrhea Prevention: Vaccination. Consult your veterinarian for a program suited to your operation Treatment: There is no treatment for the disease. In case of an outbreak, the following measures could be adopted to minimized its further spread and effect control of the disease. Isolate sick birds quickly Quarantine the area by regulating persons entering the disease-affected premises of from other farms as well as from one poultry house to another Revaccination of the birds if titer (detected by serological test) is already low Thoroughly disinfect the houses and premises. Allow to dry before occupancy Bury dead birds deeply or burn Chronic Respiratory Disease (CRD) Cause: Mycoplasma organism or pleuropneumonia like organism (PPLO) Transmission: CRD organism or is egg-borne; contracted exposure with infected flock Airborne transmission Signs Tracheal rales, sneezing coughing watery or sticky discharged from the nostrils Foamy exudates in the eyes Feed consumption is reduced and the birds lose weight Treatment: Broad spectrum antibiotics, either by injection or mixed with feeds or drinking water Coccidiosis Cause: Microscopic organisms called coccidian (Eimeria species) usually occurs in flocks below two months of age. Transmission: When birds pick up or swallow the coccidial organisms Contaminated feed and water Indirect contact thru flies, human beings and other mechanical means Signs Tendency to huddle together in a corner Decrease feed and water intake and poor weight gain Prevention Incorporation of coccidiostat in the feeds or drinking water. Use of sulfa drugs. Most feed companies incorporate this in the feed mixture as indicated in the feed tags Mareks Disease Cause: Virus Transmission: Exposure to infected birds or to environment with existing virus, poultry nests and feeders Signs Initial symptoms are leg weakness and paralysis of one or both legs Birds tend to rest on their breast with one leg extended forward and the other backward They could hardly reached the feeders and the waterers resulting in the dehydration and emancipation which finally cause death Prevention: Vaccination with MD vaccine, the most commonly used is the so called Herpes virus of turkey (HVT) Treatment: There is no known treatment for the disease Avian Malaria Cause: Microscopic Protozoan Parasite Transmission: Bites of mosquitoes, mechanically by blood transfer as in mass vaccination, caponization and injection Signs Severe anemia (paleness) extreme leg weakness, emancipation and nervous signs like twisting of the head The shanks and the toes are dry and birds have ruffled feathers Greenish-yellow or greenish white diarrhea Prevention: Control if mosquitoes within the premises and houses with effective insecticides, include spraying the breeding places of mosquitoes. Proper drainage of stagnant water Treatment: Anti malarial drops like plasmochin, quinine hydrochloride and pyrimethamine combinations were found effective. Confer with the veterinarians. Management Housing Equipment Feeding troughs or feeders Feeders can be placed inside or along the front of cages. When making feeders, consider the ease in cleaning and avoidance of feed spilage. Feed spilahe may be avoided by placing a metal or wooden strip along the inner mouth of the feed trough. Waterers To facilitate cleaning, the shape and size of the waterers should be semi circular, fairly wide and supported by an adjustable bracket to permit easier adjustment. It may have a removal stopper at the drainage end to allow for easier cleaning For chicks, the waterers are usually one gallon plastic jars The most common waterers are the plastic waterers because they do not rust therefore they will last longer Backyard poultry raisers usually use bamboo waterers. They are cheap but there is a great tendency for slime (lumot to develop) and often times they do not last very long. They need constant changing. Portable Catching Panels This is usually made of either bamboo, wood or wire frames. This device comes in handy during vaccination. Feed Carts In a well-planned poultry house with cemented service alleys, the feed cart is a handy piece of equipment which can reduce the number of hours spent in feeding the chickens. It makes the feeding less laborious and tiresome. In the absent of a feed cart a wheelborrow will do. Lighting In shade houses, natural daylight must be supplemented with artificial lighting in order to obtain desirable lighting patterns which are necessary to adequately control sexual maturity. A constant or decreasing lighting pattern during rearing is essential to prevent too early sexual maturity. An increasing or constant light pattern is necessary after 22-24 weeks of age. Egg Handling Supply at least 1 nest per 4 female. Ensure free circulation of air around the nest areas to discourage broodiness. Collect eggs more regularly than in temperate areas and transfer immediately to the egg cooling room which should be located on the farm site. Transport eggs to the hatchery in an insulated van. Pratice daily fumigation of eggs. Marketing Marketing for Broiler Birds have attained the marketable weight should be sold. Birds should be harvested as scheduled. When harvest schedule approaches the companys representatives should be reminded of the exact date that the birds are to be harvested and the assurance that his company trucks should come on time. This is to ensure that the birds will not consume extra feeds due to longer stay in the farm without any beneficial effect to the grower. The birds should be harvested within the shortest possible time. There are companies that sell to viajeros. The middle man tend to select the bigger and healthier birds of relatively uniform sizes. This practice should not be allowed since this will disturb the other birds resulting to weight losses and also delays the harvesting. For independent growers Alternative market outlets should be surveyed even before deciding to broilers to be assured of the ready market at the time of harvest. Marketing arrangements with local hotels, restaurants, cafeterias, institutional buyers and grocery stores with freezers should be made Procedures should form associations or market cooperatives so that they could agree on a common prize. Organized producers have some bargaining power with regard to their selling price Producers will be best advised to compute which is more profitable to sell, the birds dressed or live, and whether to sell at the farm or bring them to market. The broilers should be sold at optimum weight. More profits can be derived if broilers are sold between 1.3 to 1.5 kg live weight depending on consumers preferences and market reports Marketing of Eggs Survey market outlets before investing in egg production. Marketing arrangements must be made with local bakeries, local hotels, restaurants, cafeterias, groceries, or sari-sari store, higher income families and other regular users. This will ensure regular orders for the eggs. Sell graded or classified eggs. Proper grading or classification can attract all types of consumers. This would also enable the consumers to make purchasing decision on egg size at hand. Sell only clean eggs since everybody wants clean eggs. Dry or wet cleaning of eggs should be a standard practice on the far. Reduce breakage and spoilage of eggs to the minimum. Broken eggs constitute losses and render the container unsightly. Technology Options ORGANIC PRODUCTION OF NATIVE CHICKEN Organic Management System The organic management system us aimed to develop a harmonious relationship between land and animals, and respect for their physiological and behavioral needs. This can be achieved by a combination of providing quality organically-grown feeds and fodder, appropriate stocking rates, animal husbandry systems appropriate to behavioral needs, and animal management practices that seek to promote health and prevent diseases. Organically Produced Native Chicken The Philippine native chickens and their upgrades, whether raised under scavenge-based system or free-range system can very well be regarded as organically produced. They are adapated to local conditions and utilize traditional feeds (succulent leaves, buds, inflorescence, insects, earthworms, grains and kitchen discards) coming fromthe farms itself. No synthetic drugs are given except vaccines. Potential Users The raising of organic native chicken can be integrated with other crops and livestock production systems. This technology is very appropriate for farmers with adequate range area for the production of native chicken. Organic native chicken production could be done in various agro-ecosystem which include but not limited to orchards, grasslands, upland and hillyland. The meat and eggs should be sold as organic food and should command a premium price compared to the same products coming from commercial exotic chickens. Simple Cost and Benefit Analysis Production Cost: The production cost for raising the Philippine native chicken is vey minimal. Chickens are allowed to wander freely and scavenge for all or most of their food. Free-range system: Under free-range system, almost 75% of their requirements are obtained from the range. Feed supplements can be in the form of grains (rice, corn) chopped coconut meat or kitchen discards. Market Price: Market weight is between 0.8 to 1.3 kg per bird. Market age is between 12 weeks up to 18 weeks old. Price per live is between PhP 80 to PhP 200. Eggs which are about 40 to 45 grams (small) sell between PhP 5 to PhP 6 per piece. Most are paid in premium price because of their unique wuality attributes including distinct flavor, leanness, texture and pigmentation. Eggs are likewise valued because of the intense yellow pigmentation of the yolk.

My Father's Bicol Express

My father’s bicol exress is my favorite dish that my father cooked. It is also my cousin’s favorite because of the spiciness. My grandmother told us that the reason why we love spicy foods, because we have a blood of bicolana/bicolano. Ingredient and Portion: 2 kls. pork belly (menudo cut) 3 pcs. coconut (meat grated and extracted into 1st and 2nd extraction) *it is better to buy in wet markets since they already have improvised coconut milk extraction machine* 1/2 k. bagoong alamang 6 segments garlic, pounded and minced 2 medium onions, chopped 1kl finger chilies or sili pangsigang ( sliced diagonally) dash of pepper dash of sugar (to balance the taste if bagoong is too salty) water Directions: 1. Wash and drain the pork cutlets and set aside. 2. In a wok with 3 cups water,bring to boil the meat cutlets until tender. 3. When the wok is almost dry and the pork starts to sizzle, add the onions and garlic then saute in the pork's own fat. 4. When almost brown and fragrant with spices, add the bagoong alamang then mix and cook. 5. Pour the 2nd extracted coconut milk then simmer. 6, Add the sliced finger chilis.cook for 5 minutes. 7. Pour the remaining coconut cream and simmer. 8. Cook for another 5 minutes. 9. Balance the taste with sugar, salt if needed and a dash of pepper.